Get ready to be immersed in a sea of culture and a warm welcome when you visit the Magdalen Islands this summer. Only a short ferry ride from PEI, August is an ideal time to visit the crescent shaped archipelago located in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence.
We got off the ferry, a little seasick after five hours of rocking, glad to be on solid ground again. We were in Cap-aux-Meules, the second island from the south. The first thing that caught our attention was the rainbow colored homes: red, green, cyan blue, deep purple… It was just like the pictures in their brochures! The colorful homes created an incredible contrast against the blue sky and the sandy dunes- it was a true feast for the eyes and an artist palette.
We made our way south on Route 199. It was a 20 minute drive to our bed and breakfast 'Le Marie Michel' in Havre-Aubert which is the most southern island of the archipelago. The house, a bright yellow with a red awning was surrounded by sunflowers. Upon our arrival our hosts, Marie and Michel, urged us to join them with the other guests at their large country table for some fresh hot coffee and even offered us some delectable home made cake. After a couple of hours of talking and rest, we asked to be directed to a nearby local restaurant where we could find good food and a great ambiance. Michèl advised us to stop by Café de la Grave.
Café de la Grave turned out to be a definite must-see. This is a place where locals and tourists alike get together to play Skip Bo and sing along side by side. In fact, we loved it so much we went there to eat three times! It's a place where each chair is different from one another, where there are plants hanging in every corner, where the décor is made up of local artist's paintings and the light fixtures are all made of sand. The first night we arrived, the piano man was singing "Partons, la mer est belle." As we sat looking over the menu, an elderly woman with hair the color of snow began to sing with the voice of a seventeen year old soprano. She sat proudly, still wearing her checkered coat and clutching onto her hot pink purse, and sang so beautifully that the crowd momentarily hesitated to join in. The atmosphere at Café de la Grave is fantastic. The food is fresh, tasty and affordable- really what more could one ask for?
The following day, after a succulent three course breakfast, we headed off along the highway with a mission to drive from one end to the other. The archipelago offers about 100km of paved road and it can be crossed in just over an hour. Of course there are far too many scenic stops and shopping opportunities along the way, so the trip is always much longer.
Our first stop was at Les Artisans du Sable, a boutique where sand has been transformed into murals, lamps, pots and even chess sets. There are hundreds of different pieces to choose from and something for everyone. From there we began our journey north, with sand dunes flanking both sides of the highway and colorful kite surfers flying above us. We made our way to La Méduse where local artists blow glass and make the islands one of a kind blown glass jelly fish, a unique and beautiful souvenir. For lunch, we stopped at Délice de la Mer for mouth watering lobster rolls, then had local beer at Microbrasserie a l'Abri de la Tempête and ultimately finished off the day watching the sunset over Old Harry beach.
Whether it is a romantic getaway or simply family fun weekend, the Magdalen Islands offer a wealth of activities and sightseeing for everyone. Hope you enjoy it as much as we did!
For general information: www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com/magdalen-islands
For lodging: www.lemariemichel.ca
For getting there by Ferry: www.ctma.ca
What to see and do in August
Sand Castle Festival, August 10-12, 2007, Havre-Aubert Beach
Acadian Festival at Havre-Aubert, August 4-15, 2007