Sitting proudly on the shores of the Ottawa River in Gatineau, Quebec, the Canadian Museum of Civilization is Canada's number one cultural destination, attracting an impressive 1.3 million visitors each year.

The spectacular view of the Parliament buildings and the museum's architectural design are reason enough for visitors to stop by this Canadian landmark-even if their itinerary does not allow time to go in.

The building which consists of two distinct pavilions expands over 1, 076,400 sq. ft. Its curved lines are imposing, bold, and organic. Designed by Native-Canadian architect Douglas Cardinal, it has won several awards and is considered to be an architectural masterpiece of the twentieth century.

I first visited the Canadian Museum of Civilization in Ottawa when it had just opened in 1989 and I was only 11. The collection of totem poles in the Grand Hall was striking though a little frightening, given their height and my size. My favourite part was the Canadian Children's Museum, a little hidden treasure in the large expanse of the museum. Here the air reverberates with children's excited voices. As I step in, I suddenly remember being here 20 years ago, holding tightly onto my pretend passport, enchanted by the colourful array of places to visit- the Pyramids, a Japanese teahouse, a European Bazaar.

As popular as ever, the place is packed. Everywhere I look there are babies in their carriages, expectant mothers with their toddlers and groups of pre-teens. I walk quickly through the exhibits, noting that they've added a theatre where kids can put on fabulous period costumes, replete with hats and feather boas. I watch the children with a pang of nostalgia. I stop long enough to try, in vain, to put on pink chiffon dress, but of course it doesn't fit. A seven year-old waits impatiently for me to hand over the dress.

I leave the Children's Museum after a mental note to return to this pediatric 'heaven' when I have kids of my own.

I head to the Grand Hall stopping at the glass wall to take in the breathtaking view of Parliament Hill across the water. Next stop is Canada Hall which is touted as leading visitors on a "remarkable journey through one thousand years of Canada's history." The first section focuses on the Atlantic region, Quebec and Ontario from the year 1000 to 1085 and the second covers Western Canada from 1885 to the present.

The Vikings arrival to Newfoundland marks the first stage. With each step, I cross centuries. I read about Louis Riel and his unduly murder, the history of Canada throughout the two World Wars and the injustice done to the aboriginal children who were forced to leave their families to go to missionary schools. My favourite is the remarkable Acadian exhibit: a complete replica of a New France farmhouse, a public square, an inn, a hospital and a shoemaker's house.

Back at the Grand Hall, the totems polls I had found frightening as a child, now are beautiful. All originals and made of red cedar, they each represent a family's story. Our guide tells us that each piece of the totem poll actually marks an event through time. It makes me think of scrapbooking. I take a few more snapshots to add to my own scrapbook before heading out to end the day at the Zen Garden, a little known secret and the museum's best spot to watch the sun set over Parliament hill.